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The Myth Of ‘Ethical’ Fashion: How a Multinational Clothing Brand Neglected its Women Workers -Swathi Shivanand

-TheWire.in

The COVID-19 pandemic has been used as an excuse to hide anti-worker actions by apparel brands and their supplier factories.

“Where are you hiding, H&M?… If you don’t come out and stand with us now, it means you are complicit in union busting and closure of the company. Your profits are made on the sweat of our labour…Please ask Gokaldas to reopen the factory.“

On 7, July 2020 Shobha, a laid-off worker at the Gokaldas Exports-owned Euro Clothing Company-2 (ECC-2) factory recorded a video where she made this appeal. The video was part of an international campaign undertaken by her union – the Garment and Textile Workers Union (GATWU) – demanding that H&M, the only buyer at the factory, respect its commitments to protecting workers’ rights.

When Shobha’s video was released on social media, it had already been a month since workers began their protest against the sudden and illegal layoff announced at the ECC-2 unit by Gokaldas Exports. Workers were under immense pressure. The company had been using illegal and coercive methods to force workers to resign. Mounting uncertainty over whether the factory will actually reopen were undermining workers’ resolve to hold out against the company. The near-total absence of income during the COVID-19 pandemic had severely affected garment workers’ households. Everyone was desperate for some income that would meet expenses and pay off debts.

Apathetic to these pressing worries, H&M – an international apparel brand for which Shobha and 1300 other workers had been working for years – refused to intervene in the industrial dispute. It dismissed Gokaldas Exports’ claim that orders from H&M had considerably reduced because of the COVID-19 pandemic; instead it claimed that orders to Gokaldas Exports were at the same level as the previous year. Important to note that there exists no mechanism through which these claims by both companies can be verified. Initially, H&M declared the dispute a result of ‘differing interpretations of the national law’ between GATWU and Gokaldas Exports. On its part, H&M said it was ‘facilitating’ meetings with the disputing entities to resolve the situation.

This statement would give the impression that H&M was acting over and above what it needed to actually do, as a sort of favour to workers.

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