Despite a 25 percent deficit in rainfall, a village in Udaipur still manages to fill up its water tanks to the brim. WHEN HE first visited Dilwara, on the outskirts of Udaipur, Andre Ling, then a student from England, saw the village’s only pond, surrounded by filthy stumps of limestone and mud, disappear due to rank neglect over two summers. It was 2003 and Rajasthan had recorded a 45 percent...

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